I had the pleasure of visiting Katong Antique House yesterday. It was like going back in time. Not just literally cos the place is like a living museum (and they conduct tours too!). I heard so many words that I’ve not heard since the time Mama passed away in 1994. AND I bought chet-kee, a card game that Mama and I used to play while waiting for my school bus. So that must have been more then 20 years ago. I’m so eager to find someone who can play it with me again but so far, no one I knows has even heard of it but at least I have the instructions.
That hour that I spent at Katong Antique House, I felt like I was part of a world that knew me, and that I knew. As a very very watered down version of a Peranakan kid, I am in no position to share my very limited knowledge of the wonderful rich culture. But what I would like to do is to share what I know, and hopefully, continue learning so that I will have enough to share with my own kids.
First things first. Peranakans are not from a country called "Peranaka". In history books we are known as "Straits-born Chinese", having our roots from either Malacca or Penang. But despite that, many of the older Peranakans* can speak Malay but not Chinese. I can’t speak Malay. It’s embarrassing.
*male = baba, female = nonya, but sometimes in gereral we’re called "babas". Older ladies are referred to as "bibiks", the most famous probably being Bibik Belachan
As the culture faded over time, so did the customs. Peranakan weddings used to be 15-day affairs. The groom would serve tea to his father before leaving his house to pick his bride. At the same time, she would have had her hair combed and bunned on the top of her head with a ‘crown’ that weighs something like 2kg. They’d have procedures like walking over rice buckets and I don’t know what else.
And I only know all this from documentaries. Another one which I watched with my grandmother when I was 7 or 8. By the time my grandparents had gotten married, such a wedding procedure was already very very diluted.
At my wedding, I tried to incorporate as much Peranakan-ness into it as possible. I wore a nonya kebaya. I even borrowed Mama’s kerosang (nonya kebayas do not come with buttons. You have to ‘fasten’ them with the kerosang, which is usually made of gold). But I couldn’t find the beaded slippers so I wore normal strappy shoes. Which would have technically made me a big laughing stock if a true blue Peranakan lady had spotted it. And the irony of it is that my grandaunt actually MAKES these shoes. She even conducts classes.
It was a big shock to me when I started work and I wore a kebaya top to work and people asked what I was wearing. I’d always thought that the general knowledge of the peranakan culture was low, but I never expected this.
My grandfather’s grandmother originated from Penang, but according to my dad, she was born here. So I don’t know if I’m a 4th, 5th or 6th (or even more) generation Peranakan. It’s embarrassing. I don’t know my roots. And I also don’t know how we became Baba Lang ("baba people"). There must have been some intermarriage somewhere up in the line. Must have been way up since nobody remembers.
I grew up always wondering why I was different.
On eating and dining
I wondered why whenever my classmates and I compared favourite foods, none of them had ever heard of gerang assam, or bueh keluak, gantan tng or bakwan kepeteng.
I wondered why most things were spicy. I wondered why we ate with our fingers at Mama house (note to anyone who wants to correct this: the reason why it’s not "Mama’s House" is because as kids we couldn’t pronounce it, so the term "Mama House" stuck. So shut it).
I wondered why we didn’t have the traditional chicken bowls, and had the big yellow / green ones instead.
I wondered why the normal bak chang to me had a blue tip, but nobody else knew what I was talking about
On entertainment
I wondered why nobody ever heard of the play Pilay Menantu when I had watched it over and over again on video with my grandmother. About the kaypoh amah/servant Ah Cheng and the matriach that they called ‘nia’. I couldn’t understand but I knew when to clap and when to laugh together with the audience (filmed in front of a live audience)
On attire
I wondered why my grandmother wore transparent tops with no buttons and long colourful skirts when other grandmothers wore short sleeved tops with matching pants.
On names
I wondered we addressed our aunts by weird names like ‘ko-beseh’ and ‘ko-chic’.
On physical appearance
I wondered why my arms were so hairy (at one time I thought no boy would ever love me because I was so hairy) and why I was so dark and why my eyes were so big.
On language
I wondered why everyone (till now) tells me the way I speak hokkien is different (but to me I can’t tell the difference). I wondered why I had differente everyday words as compared to my friends - we said ‘tuala’ for towel, and ‘lengkang kangkong’ to symbolize ‘making the fan rotate’.
I wondered why shopkeepers looked at me strangely when I told them I wanted to buy a ‘tangkot’.
I’d like to share as much as I know but I think I should beef up on that before I start thinking about saving the world. For now, I’ll leave that to Captain Planet. I wonder if he has a batik shirt though.